Madeira
In Madeira, we stayed at Reid’s Palace. It is a stunning hotel built into the cliffside on the outskirts of the capital city Funchal. The hotel is in a cute little area outside the city with some restaurants like Pau de Lume and Terreiro that we visited, and it’s about a 7 min drive or 30 min walk from the city center of Funchal. The experience at Reid’s Palace was very upscale and proper. It was originally founded by a Scottish man in 1891 so it has a ton of history and reminded me a lot of London. Not to mention, most of the guests were from the UK!
We booked with Amex points which I highly recommend doing if you can – and part of the deal was that we got a breakfast credit every day. Overall, we had a really good experience and the service was good – but I will say it comes with a heavy $$, so I honestly don’t know if it would be worth it had we not used Amex points. If you plan to stay mostly at the hotel, the views (especially from the pool deck) are unbeatable, so it could be worth it depending on your vacation plans! Another option that is a little less expensive is Savoy’s Palace – we ate at one of the restaurants at this hotel and had drinks at their bar. It was also a super nice hotel and there were other American’s staying there if that is what you are looking for!
We also rented a car in Madeira per internet recommendations. Funchal is a very walkable city with large sidewalks on the side of the street all the way from our hotel (a 30 min walk). But we wanted to venture to a couple other parts of the island (Seixal Beach and Pico do Arieiro for the hike) which are on the other side of the island and there is not really Uber, so the car rental was perfect. The streets are very small and mountainous so be VERY careful, and make sure that you are a confident driver because those roads are definitely not for the weak of mind. The rental was a relatively easy process as well, but I recommend booking in advance. They do put a hold on your card, so definitely do your research so you can know what to expect. Oh and one more tip so you don’t almost get stranded like we did – if you go to Pico do Arieiro make sure you fill up on gas in Fuchal or before you start to ascend the mountain because we got half way up and realized there were no gas stations around! We almost ran out of gas and had to backtrack about 20 minutes so don’t make the same mistake!!!
Restaurants
I recommend making reservations in Madeira because when we showed up the first night mostly everything was booked up! But we were able to easily go on google and make reservations that way for the next few nights. I was surprised that most restaurants don’t open until 7 or 7:30pm for dinner so plan accordingly!
- The Pub: 8/10 This was a easy and casual spot for us after we arrived from about a 24 hour travel day. We were a bit delirious and sleep deprived – but the drinks were good and the view was gorgeous! Order the bolo do caco com manteiga d’alho (traditional Madeira garlic bread)!!
- Pau de Lume: 8.7/10 The patio was closed, but the inside has tons of greenery that gives it beautiful garden vibes. The seafood risotto was super flavorful with a little punch of spice – the portion was huge so you could definitely share – although the lobster was a little overcooked. Really enjoyed this place overall though!
- Ristorante Villa Cipriani: 10/10 If there’s one restaurant you choose from this entire post it has to be THIS ONE!! It’s ironically on the Reid’s Palace property, but we went there because of a TikTok recommendation! The food was truly spectacular! Cam + I agree that this is easily one of the best Italian restaurants that we’ve ever been to including in Italy lol. The seafood risotto was to die for!
- Terreiro: 7/10 We couldn’t quite find this place at first because it’s on “level 1,” but they have level 0 everywhere so you just have to go up the stairs! We sat outside overlooking the gorgeous garden, and I’d say the food was good not great.
- Las Caribs: 9/10 If you visit Seixal beach on the other side of the island, definitely go to this spot! It’s a casual outdoor restaurant that reminds me of being in the Caribbean! I got the chicken skewers, and they might just be the best skewers I’ve ever had.
- Patio Das Babosas: 8.5/10 This café is up in the village by the Monte Palace Gardens! We never made it inside the place because we ate out on the balcony. It’s at the top of the mountain, so the view might be the best in the city! Totally worth it just for the views, but the food was good too!
- Reid’s Palace breakfast: 8.5/10 Breakfast was included for us like I mentioned earlier, but they had a wide spread at the buffet! Of course, the pastries were my fav! I’d call myself a pretty tough buffet critic, but honestly the whole spread was great!
Activities
- Sexial Beach: It’s a black sand beach on the other side of the island from Funchal (we rented a car – see above for info). Absolutely stunning views from the beach! It got a little busy, but everyone was very respectful of your space and things. Would definitely recommend!!
- Hike at Pico de Arieiro: If you’ve seen the videos of this hike than you know how crazy the views are. 10/10 worth it and I’m not overly into hiking. The trail is long so you can do as much or as little as you want – there are fantastic parts at the very start so you won’t miss out. We hiked for about 3 hours – but parking was horrendous so be warned!! I’d go early if possible.
- Jardim Monte Palace (Gardens): We took to the cable cars up to the Gardens, and it was definitely the best mode of transportation – and a super cool experience! The Gardens themselves were breathtaking – not only do they have pretty plants but also stunning views since it’s at the top of the mountain! The cable cars start/drop off in Downtown Funchal so afterwards we walked around the city! I know I’m recommending the whole list, but they’re all that good!!
- Afternoon Tea at Reid’s Palace: We are not huge tea drinkers, but Reid’s Palace has historically had afternoon tea on their terrace for a very long time. So we said “when in Rome!!” They serve you tea, finger sandwiches, and scones – and you have to make a reservation.
Lisbon
Restaurants
- Ninja Ramen: 8/10 After about a week of seafood, we needed to change it up so we found this Ramen place. A lot of the restaurants in Portugal felt more like formal dining to me, so it was nice that this place was super casual! Solid ramen spot.
- Pizzeria Maledetta: 9/10 A great small and quaint pizzeria – seemed local! – up in the town by the castle (Castelo de São Jorge). Both the pizza and Sangria were excellent!
- Caffè di Marzano Vermuteria: 9.2/10 We stumbled upon this gem and were pleasantly surprised! The inside is modern and moody, and my risotto was amazing. Service was quick and efficient, making it a smooth and enjoyable dining experience. Definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area!
- The Little Wine Bar: 9/10 One night we stopped here for a wine tasting! They gave us background on the different wine regions of Portugal and we got to try 4 different types of wines from various areas. It’s located on a massive central staircase, so it was pretty cool to sit outside on the steps and see what all was going on in the city.
- Ruby Rosa (Rooftop Bar): 10/10 We found this rooftop bar on our last night and it was perfect! Almost 360 degree views of the city and a fun colorful vibe inside. The drinks were aesthetic and vibrant! You have to go through the Lisbon Art Stay hotel, take the elevator to the 5th floor and then walk up 2 flights of stairs… don’t ask me how we found this lol!!
- Fauna & Flora: 8.4/10 The outside seating was so cute! Outside had a whole café type setup with greenery, and the vibes inside were just as good. I really enjoyed my acaí bowl – it felt like the first fruit I had the whole trip lol.
- La Fóllia de Belém: 8.9/10 This amazing spot is just about 2 blocks off the main area of Belém, and despite being so close, the crowds really died down. It’s an all-cash place (have exact change!) and communication was a bit tough since they didn’t speak English, but the staff was so nice and willing to make it work. Highly recommended for a more local experience!
- Pastéis de Belém: 7/10 Even though you can get them all over the city, the famous custard tarts in Portugal originated in Belem! We thought the Pastéis in Belem were a little less sweet with a little crunchier pastry so overall we liked the ones in Lisbon better, but still worth visiting this spot for the experience! However, Cameron thinks he almost got pick pocketed here so be on high alert and keep your purse close!
- Uma: 8.3/10 I think this place recently got pretty popular from social media, so they’re trying to keep up with demand! They have 1 item on the menu – seafood rice – and I was pleased with it. FYI you sit really close to the other tables and I have a very funny story so let me know if you ever want to hear it 🙂
- Chez Croissant: 7.7/10 I noticed these specialty croissants in the window one day because they look so delicious! Seems like a big tourist spot, but they were tasty. Portuguese croissants are different from French croissants – a little more dense and sweet. I personally prefer french, but worth trying them for sure!
- Carmo Rooftop: 7.5/10 Spotted this rooftop from the Elevador de Santa Justa, so we went to have a drink and appetizer. They normally only do food on the top patio, but they let us sit anyway. It was pretty touristy with a club sort of vibe and loud music, but the view was insane! And the burrata was great too.
- COME Baixa Chiado: 7.8/10 The service was a little confusing – some people ordered at the bar, we were told we’d be served at a table, and the waitress said was waiting for her partner to get back? But they had good french croissants and coffee, and that’s all I needed!
- Mar Ao Carmo: 6.5/10 Our hotel recommended this as a traditional Portuguese restaurant. Honestly, I felt like it was kind of bland. Not bad, but I wouldn’t recommend since there were tons of restaurants that serve Portuguese food!
- Green Café: 5/10 We had a little confusion with our orders and service at first, but then they did correct it. We just ordered basic coffee and croissants, but they were nothing special. There are definitely better breakfast places in my opinion!
Activities
- Castelo de São Jorge: The castle features a museum detailing the history of the castle, and it offers stunning views overlooking the entire city. There is a website for tickets, but it wasn’t working for us so we stood in line. It seemed like a long line, but it went quick! Would recommend getting them online if possible though!
- Walk through all of the squares!: In Lisbon, it seems like there is a square with monuments on every block, and they are all so beautiful! Praça do Comércio is probably the most famous one with the Arco da Rua Augusta (arch), and it is right on the water so you can take a stroll on the boardwalk while you’re there. A few others we went to were Praça do Rossio (which had a market setup when we went), Praça da Figueira, and Praça Marim Moniz.
- Miradouro de São Pedro: This was my favorite free viewpoint in the city! It was so incredible that I made us go back a second time! It has a little park area too where you can just sit and enjoy the view 🙂
- Elevador de Santa Justa: I recommend walking around to the back of the elevator (on R. Dos Sapateiros street) to get to the top so you don’t have to wait in the long line.
- Pink Street: To be honest, I’m not sure of the significance of this street, but it’s so pretty! The road is pink and there are umbrellas hanging from above. There are cafés all along the street if you want to grab a drink or bite to eat.
- Day trip to Sintra: About a 40 min drive outside of Lisbon it a city called Sintra that is home to tons of castles and palaces. The Uber’s were super cheap, but you could also take the train. About a 40-minute drive outside of Lisbon is a city called Sintra, which is home to tons of castles and palaces. The Ubers were super cheap, but you could also take the train. We visited Quinta Da Regaleira first, which had the fascinating Initiation Well and a network of caves. Then we went to the National Palace of Pena, known for its ornate palace and expansive gardens. The gardens were hard to navigate, and we got lost, so make sure to look carefully at the maps and bus system to make the most of your visit. They are much further apart than we expected because of the high elevations, so I recommend taking a tuk tuk ride from one to the other – best 15 euros we ever spent.
- Half day trip to Belém: I wouldn’t quite call it as far a travel as a “day trip,” but the tram to Belem did take a while so plan accordingly. Our first stop was the iconic Belém Tower, followed by the stunning Jerónimos Monastery, and the impressive Fonte Monumental de Belém (fountain). We couldn’t miss trying the original pastries at Pastéis de Belém – see the restaurant section for a full review. The city is on the water and felt so serene and calm to me. It was one of my favorite days!